If one establishment says “New York,” this is it. Set on an otherwise undistinguished block west of Fifth Avenue, its brownstone exterior is bedecked with a derby’s worth of colorful jockey figurines. Inside is the legendary bar/ restaurant itself, with its ceiling festooned with corporate “toys” — trucks, planes, trains, cars — bestowed by patrons, a long curved bar and red-checked tablecloths. The food here and in the upstairs dining room is a mix of old favorites, such as the ‘21’ Caesar salad and the beloved chicken hash, and the more contemporary, such as flaxseed-crusted steelhead and crushed potatoes with horseradish, asparagus and lemon vinaigrette; or grilled filet mignon with morels and a green peppercorn sauce. The wine cellar contains more than 1,300 selections, and is worth visiting to see how it was concealed from the law during Prohibition.